Week 10 : Tromsø – Djupvik – Eidsnes – Skaidi

Tuesday 24/7 : Tromsø – Ramsfjordmoen motorstadion  (33,5 km)

Wednesday 25/7 : Ramsfjordmoen motorstadion – Djupvik  (64,3 km – 757m D+)

 

Monday evening, we slept on a day and night camping in the city center of Tromsø so that I would be able to go to the public libary Tuesday morning to use the wifi and write a newsletter. Norwegian libraries are very well equipped with coffee and beverage machines and sufficient desks and space to work and read. Moreover, personnel is very friendly and attentive.

 

Before I left Tromsø, I decided to first go to a cycle repair shop because my gears began to slip through. A local had recommended the Basecamp cycle and ski shop, so I went up there. The owner showed me that the blades I use most were completely worn out, so the two gear units and the chain had to be replaced. One part was not available, but the helpful man took his motorbike and went to a huge shop at the outskirts of the city to buy one. Around 18hrs, everything was fixed and I set out with perfectly functioning gears. A real relieve after all the trouble I had had before.


Because it was already so late, I only cycled some 33 km and we spent the night in a broad valley near a motorbike stadion that the Basecamp owner had recommended as a safe free camping spot.

 

Wednesday morning, the day started sunny with a brisk wind. The first 22 km continued through the valley to Breivikseidet, where we had to take a ferry to Svensby. In Svensby it began to rain and it didn’t stop raining until I reached Lyngsydet 23 km further, where we had to take a ferry to Olderdalen. Fortunately, the rain had stopped by the time we reached Olderdalen, so the final 20+ km I remained dry.

 

Due to low-hanging clouds in the afternoon, most pics look rather grey. We found a quiet camping spot near an unused camping and witnessed another fantastic deep-orange midnight sun spectacle behind the misty mountains.

#lovelypeople #cyclingtonorthcape #womencycling #midnightsun#reachoutforbubaque
#bubaquestudentproject @ Djupvik I Lyngen, Troms, Norway

Thursday 26/7 : Djupvik – Kvænangsfjellet  (71 km – 103m D+)

 

We got up a bit later at our camping spot near the abandoned camping place in Djupvik since we went to bed after 1 o’clock Wednesday night because we were gazing at the wonderful light effects of the midnight sun in the clouds and mist surrounding the mountains. At that nightly hour, a woman with two young kids was also still wandering around in the hills.

 

The day began bright and the first part of the trajectory along the shore of the fjord was quite easy. Behind me were a few gletsjers which seemed even more impressing viewed from over the water. After about 15 kilometers, I had to cross a peninsula. Cars could go via a 4,8km-long tunnel, but cyclists were not allowed to go through and had to go via the old road and a mountain pass.

 

At our first stop in Storslett we visited an exhibition about the Reisa National Park and the customs and culture of the indigenous Sami population. After Storslett I had to cross another piece of land via a small pass, and then the road followed the shore of the Oksfjord until I reached Oksfjordham, a small village at the very end of the large fjord with a sublime panoramic view over the fjord and the surrounding mountains.

 

At that point, I had already cycled 52 kilometers, but we decided to add another 20, or 1hr and 15 minutes of cycling. The 400-meter-high Kvaenagsfjellet pass, however, which required a 6% ascent over 7 kilometers, disrupted this time schedule. A tough one, but the views over the fjords from the pass were splendid.

 

The sun was already setting and it was quite cold up there, all the more so with a sweaty body. Because it was too cold and windy on the pass, we decided to descend and look for a sleeping place a bit lower. After one long hairpin bend, we found a quiet parking lot next to a few old Sami huts where we could spend the night.

 

I accumulated more than 1000 height meters on this trajectory following the E6, a road which has the status of a European highway.

#cyclingtonorthcape #reachoutforbubaque #womencycling #ontheroad#Bubaquestudentproject #fundraising

Friday 27/7 : Kvænangsfjellet – Eidsnes (70km – 847m D+)

Beautiful ride with one pass of 300 meters and for the rest many ‘soft’ climbs.

 

A bright sun welcomed us on Friday morning 27 July. Before we departed, a couple from Hoevene, Antwerp province, took a rest at the parking where we had spent de night. They traveled in Norway 30 years ago with a car and a tent, and they were surprised how much the country had changed.

 

The bike ride started easy with the continuation of the steep descent that we had interrupted the evening before. This section was followed by an easy trajectory alongside a fjord. However, Norway wouldn’t be Norway without another long an steep climb of 6% over 4,5 kilometers. With a temperature of +20 degrees, this climb produced a lot of sweat.

 

The last part of the trajectory I spotted three reindeer: two behind the crush-barrier alongside the E6 and one jumped from a garden over the crush-barrier and walked away in a dust road at the other side of the E6. Magnificent animals, what a privilege to be able to spot them in the wild, even if it is alongside the E6.

#cyclingtonorthcape #reachoutforbubaque #womencycling #ontheroad#lovelypeople #Bubaquestudentproject #fundraising

Saturday 28/7 : Eidsnes – Alta (61,5 km – 910m D+)

 

Friday evening we spent the night at a large open space about 20 meter above fjord level, again with a magnificent view over the water and the mountains.

 

Saturday, the weather was brilliant. The ride to Alta would be about 60 km with some 1000 altitude meters according to GoogleMaps. Usually, GMaps underestimates the altitude meters, but fortunately not this time: altogether I accumulated 910 meters.

 

A few kilometers beyond our camping spot we stopped at some Sami shops on a plane: wooden sheds or tents with reindeer skins, artisanal souvenirs and other tourist trinkets. Today’s temperature was too high for the Sami shop owners: they stayed in the shadow or inside their shops.

 

The route continued with many short climbs until I reached a bridge and two tunnels some 10 km before Alta where cyclists were not allowed to pass. Cyclists had to cross the fjord via a barrage and then climb 8% over 1500 meters to surround the hill.

 

On a few beaches near the dam and on the hill, dozens of campers were parked, mainly of people who came to fish. This trajectory passed Kafjord, in previous times a copper mining village. At the grave yard there was a realistic statue of a ‘rallar family’, immigrants mainly from northern Finland and Sweden who came to work in the mines — and who often also died there.

 

After the climb surrounding the first tunnel, there was a second forbidden tunnel that cyclists had to pass via an old road that first went down to almost fjord level, and then went up again until it reached the E6. The road continued to undulate for another 6 kilometers until the Alta city center. This (shopping) center looks very futuristic and cool. There are no houses, but only shopping malls and large companies and — by way of positive contrast — the magnificent Northern Lights Cathedral (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_Lights_Cathedral). The residential areas are located lower, closer to the water level.

 

At the very end of such a residential area the road stopped on a small beach where we could stay for the night, close to the shore and far away from traffic. An optimal place for a good and quiet night.

#cyclingtonorthcape #womencycling #reachoutforbubaque #bubaquestudentproject #fundraising @ Alta, Norway

Sunday 29/7 :  Alta – Aisaroaivve   (64 km – 819m D+)

 

Sunday morning the temperature rose to 30°. We spent the night at a magnificent beach where around 10 o’clock locals from the surrounding neighbourhood came tot swim and sunbathe on the rocks. These circumstances were too inviting no to go for a swim, so we put on our bathing suites and slowly went into the cold water — 17° according to locals — initially very carefully only knee-high, then a bit deeper to moisten wrists and neck, hold our breaths and dive. The tingling sensation afterwards while drying in the sun was wonderful.

 

Two Norwegian ladies came to pick the leaves and petals of the long purple flowers that grow abundantly here to make fortifying tea from them.
Around 16 hrs I began to bike. In Alta I saw the first traffic sign mentioning Nordkapp: another 240 km.

 

After a 15-km ride along the shore of the Altafjord followed a steep 7% climb over 4 km until a height of about 300 meters, followed by a soft descent downstream alongside a river that flew into a lake. Then came another climb to an altitude of 400 meters up to the fjell, a very wide, barren and desolate plateau. I have never before seen such a spacious landscape.

 

Before reaching the fjell, I saw a few reindeer in the valley and mountain across the river, including two white ones.

 

On the plateau there were a few isolated Sami huts. We spent the night on the fjell, on a parking lot alongside the E6 near a broad and shallow river. Since it was still quite warm around 22 hrs, I was able to bathe in the river.

Monday 30/7 : Aisaroaivve – Indre Nordmannseth (66,5km – 724m D+)

 

For 25 km we followed the E6 over the fjell, downstream along a river to Skaidi. With a wind in the back of 19km/s it all went well. After Skaidi there was a climb up to about 300m, and then the road went quickly downhill and I had the wind in the back again up to Olderfjord, at kilometer 50. There we left the E6 to follow the E69 to North Cape going along the shore of a fjord with quite a rough and rocky coastline.

 

From our overnight stay on a protruding rock on the coast we sometimes saw quite large “shadows” passing by under the water surface, followed by seagulls. Yet again we were in a kind of ‘room with a view’. Not very stimulating to go to sleep … 🙂